I’ve explained to quite a few people how to bolt a length of 2 by 4 to a gearbox to be able to keep the thing from rotating as you go to loosen or tighten the big pinion and input gear nuts. Or bolting the box to a stout bench… If you don’t have air tools, or don’t want to use impact against the gears, you can get an easy grip on the case to apply lots of force GENTLY.
Here, I’ve locked the box in first and fourth. I did not capture how to do this on the rod-change linkage… you must rotate the shift stub shaft out of engagement to be able to move the shift-forks independently, then manually slide the hub collars to engage 2 gears at once. As all gears are in constant mesh, nothing can turn with two different ratios locked. Now if you can grab the box securely, you can apply the necessary pressure gently to get it (un)done!
If anyone wants to see the linkage trick, leave a comment! I probably have another case I could show. Specific questions make for good relevant content, so ask away!
https://cooperroadmini.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Cooper-Road-Mini-Logo2-1.png00Jemalhttps://cooperroadmini.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Cooper-Road-Mini-Logo2-1.pngJemal2014-03-26 14:24:162016-11-22 04:31:48Physics Tricks: Make the gearbox 8 feet long
As expected, once we got into the gearbox, we find that the synchro or baulk ring on second gear had worn all the way down such that it did not synchronize the gear speed to the shift-hub, resulting in that big crunch going into second. In this video, I show how you can spot a worn synchro, very useful if you want to get an idea of the condition of used gearbox without taking it apart.
https://cooperroadmini.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Cooper-Road-Mini-Logo2-1.png00Jemalhttps://cooperroadmini.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Cooper-Road-Mini-Logo2-1.pngJemal2014-03-25 17:24:462016-11-22 04:32:27Inside the Gearbox: Finding the Grinding
Let’s continue with our repair of second gear for Mike’s beautiful Mark 1 Mini. Unfortunately, getting to 2nd gear does require a complete disassembly of the gearbox, so that means getting the engine out of the car. This one is a bit more challenging because this car is so nicely detailed, AND has the proper servo-assist Cooper S disk brakes, adding to the complexity and care required for working in the engine compartment. But of course, we’re the experts, so we can do it!
I often get asked about getting the shift linkage and axles separated from the engine, so here’s a short video showing me doing most of the required under-car work to get the engine out! Thanks to my lovely assistant Tisha for doing the camera work.
https://cooperroadmini.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Cooper-Road-Mini-Logo2-1.png00Jemalhttps://cooperroadmini.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Cooper-Road-Mini-Logo2-1.pngJemal2014-03-13 14:59:032016-11-22 04:33:16Disconnecting the shift-linkage and axles on a Rod-change Classic Mini Cooper
Physics Tricks: Make the gearbox 8 feet long
/0 Comments/in Classic Mini Cooper /by JemalI’ve explained to quite a few people how to bolt a length of 2 by 4 to a gearbox to be able to keep the thing from rotating as you go to loosen or tighten the big pinion and input gear nuts. Or bolting the box to a stout bench… If you don’t have air tools, or don’t want to use impact against the gears, you can get an easy grip on the case to apply lots of force GENTLY.
Here, I’ve locked the box in first and fourth. I did not capture how to do this on the rod-change linkage… you must rotate the shift stub shaft out of engagement to be able to move the shift-forks independently, then manually slide the hub collars to engage 2 gears at once. As all gears are in constant mesh, nothing can turn with two different ratios locked. Now if you can grab the box securely, you can apply the necessary pressure gently to get it (un)done!
If anyone wants to see the linkage trick, leave a comment! I probably have another case I could show. Specific questions make for good relevant content, so ask away!
Inside the Gearbox: Finding the Grinding
/0 Comments/in Classic Mini Cooper /by JemalAs expected, once we got into the gearbox, we find that the synchro or baulk ring on second gear had worn all the way down such that it did not synchronize the gear speed to the shift-hub, resulting in that big crunch going into second. In this video, I show how you can spot a worn synchro, very useful if you want to get an idea of the condition of used gearbox without taking it apart.
Disconnecting the shift-linkage and axles on a Rod-change Classic Mini Cooper
/3 Comments/in Classic Mini Cooper /by JemalLet’s continue with our repair of second gear for Mike’s beautiful Mark 1 Mini. Unfortunately, getting to 2nd gear does require a complete disassembly of the gearbox, so that means getting the engine out of the car. This one is a bit more challenging because this car is so nicely detailed, AND has the proper servo-assist Cooper S disk brakes, adding to the complexity and care required for working in the engine compartment. But of course, we’re the experts, so we can do it!
I often get asked about getting the shift linkage and axles separated from the engine, so here’s a short video showing me doing most of the required under-car work to get the engine out! Thanks to my lovely assistant Tisha for doing the camera work.